Didn’t realize that a fetchmail implementation I was using was actually *not* using SSL for a month.  I had installed security/ca_root_nss but FreeBSD doesn’t assume that you want to use the certificates in this package.  I don’t understand it, but whatever.

So, add this to your fetchmailrc to actually use the certificate authorities in there and really do SSL to your gmail account:

sslcertfile /usr/local/share/certs/ca-root-nss.crt